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gilt chain detailing and interlocking double-C were the house's foregrounded codes
A dress from Yohji Yamamoto's Autumn/Winter 1997 collection
when the house's vocabulary of architectural tailoring and neutral palettes was established
and silhouettes cut for volume rather than to flatter the body
Ann Demeulemeester 2001SS Skirt gilt chain detailing and interlockingA Spring Summer 2001 skirt from Ann Demeulemeester, designed by the founder during the house's peak period. By this point the label's signatures were fully formed: asymmetric cuts, draped fabric, leather harnessing, and a monochrome palette with occasional ivory or oxblood. The work remained Ann Demeulemeester's own throughout these seasons.
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